Israel Birding Trip Report

Southern Israel in Spring By Susannah Lerman

Day 1

After a delayed take-off at Heathrow due to an unruly passenger, the plane arrives at Ovda just 30 minutes behind schedule. The cold weather of London soon seems worlds away when we step out of the airport to warm, shining sun. James and Susannah meet us outside the terminal and the harsh, desert surroundings fill our senses. As we wait for everyone to gather, the binoculars come out. There is a Crested Lark feeding in front of a bus and a pair of Yellow-vented Bulbuls perched on the fence. Just a few posts away are some migrants including Blackcap and Common Whitethroat while a resident Blackstart fans his tail at us.

Before long, we begin the drive along the Negev Plateau. The soft sandstone hills and very little vegetation are quite a contrast to England! At a stand of date trees we see our first Brown-necked Ravens. Though the light is fading, Susannah promises us they do in fact have brown necks.

The road twists through some agricultural fields and then climbs a bit to an army station at Eagle Mountain. Here is a breathtaking view into the Arava Valley. We can see Kibbutz Lotan, nestled away amidst the stony desert. The Adom Mountains in Jordan are slightly covered in the remains of an afternoon sandstorm. We continue the drive down into the valley, dropping about 700 meters in elevation. One more stop produces a pair of White-crowned Black Wheatears perched on a boulder.

We pull into the car park at Lotan and the birding continues. As we unload the vehicles, a stunning Masked Shrike sitting guard on a bare branch of a young citrus tree catches our attention. In front of the car park, amongst some sandy desert and recently planted trees, are a few Spur-winged Plovers, looking ever so elegant in their black, white and silver plumage. Just as the light fades, a European Bee-eater flies over the tourism rooms, giving his lilting call as he flies.

We meet up for our evening meal and hear about the upcoming week's schedule. We are all bubbling with excitement.

Day 2

The dawn chorus is filled with the clicking of Lesser Whitethroat and the burble of Yellow-vented Bulbuls. We meet outside of the chalets and see our first Palestine Sunbird glimmering in the morning sunlight. Red-rumped Swallows fly past as well as a few House Martins. Migration is in full swing. Walking to the Organic Garden, we hear the 'sik-sak' of Spur-winged Plover, recent colonizers of the kibbutz. As soon as we enter the garden, we know why it is a hot spot…birds are everywhere! With some patience, we manage to see seven Quail, all out in the open, all together. These are our best views of this skulking species. Looking down the furrows, we see Bluethroats and Red-throated Pipits weaving in and out of the brasicas. Chiffchaff and Willow Warblers hop around the fig trees and plenty of Palm Doves fly overhead, laughing as they pass.

We continue on our pre-breakfast walk through some saltbushes and dry desert scrub and scare up a Stone Curlew. He lands nearby, on the other side of a mound. Shortly, we re-locate him, his yellow eye staring back at us. Scope views are fantastic as the bird walks out into the open. Meanwhile, at the football pitch, we have quite the selection of Wagtails. There are Black-headed, Blue-headed and Sike's Wagtails. A dazzling Hoopoe busies himself at the edge of the field, drumming for insects. His head bobs up and down, his long bill going deeper into the earth. A brightly marked Male Redstart watches all the action from some chairs close by.

At the swimming pool, we have our first challenge of the day with a bunting. After a bit of studying, we see clearly that it is a female Cretzschmar's Bunting. It's that time of year when there is an overlap of Cretzschmar's and Ortolan Buntings going through and the females can cause a bit of a headache! There are plenty of Blackcaps and Lesser Whitethoats diving in and out of the bushes and a mixture of hirundines hawk insects over the water. Red-rumps, Swallows and Crag Martins mix in together and soon we can separate them all. Just as we leave the area, James spots a Wryneck just next to a palm tree. His busy plumage is almost hard to pick out, even in the grass.

After breakfast we drive up to the Negev Plateau to the fields at Shizzafon. We pass a Steppe Buzzard that had been roosting in an Acacia tree on the approach road to Lotan. The views are fantastic and soon he lifts off the branches and reveals his buzzard wing pattern. Just before we turn into the fields, we stop for a Mourning Wheatear, another resident black and white wheatear. The bird is somewhat active but we all see the white flashes in the wing as he flies. Finally we arrive at the alfalfa fields and hope to find a reported Caspian Plover. Within minutes, we locate this gem of a bird, in full breeding plumage at that! His delicate shape stands out amongst the short greenery. Everyone is delighted with the views of this special bird. To add to the excitement, a Lesser Kestrel hovers overhead and eventually lands on an irrigation post. Before he lands, he shows his blue wing panel. African Rock Martins flit about with Crag Martins, causing some confusion at first, but with careful inspection, we pick out the dark underwing coverts of the darker Crag Martin. There are Tawny Pipits and Tree Pipits feeding in the alfalfa and a very obliging Mourning Wheatear shows all as he perches on a nearby stick. A brave Blackstart tries to push the wheatear off his post but no luck!

While we take in all this avian wonder, James heroically picks out a Bimaculated Lark, a sought after species by most. The bird is at the edge of the field and shows very well. His black collar and sturdy stature are admired. As we walk back to the vehicles, we see a female Citrine Wagtail feeding with some female Yellow Wagtails. The bright, white wing-bars and gray mantle are distinctive.

We leave the bird rich alfalfa fields, and drop back down into the valley, passing a family of Nubian Ibex feeding on Acacia pods en route. Next stop is the oasis at Yotvata holiday village. Hidden in a stand of date trees is the local Tristram's Grackle. These garrulous black birds show well, revealing their orange wing patch when they fly. A stroll around the village produces Little Green Bee-eater, yet another stunning resident bird. His green sheen and black eye mask makes this bird always a winner. Masked Shrikes are plentiful but it is the Caspian Reed Warbler that receives all the attention.

After a delicious lunch, we take a bit of a siesta, though Roger and Mick bird throughout the hot hours of the day! Meeting again at 2.45, we head for the southern tip of the Dead Sea for an evening session looking for Nubian Nightjar with Israeli ornithologist, Hadoram Shirahai. Once again, the scenery is quite dramatic. The sandstone and limestone mountains are changing continually, cracks and crannies turning into peaks and plateaus. About midway into our journey, James receives a phone call and pulls off the road. Bad news. Hadoram Shirahai has cancelled the excursion for the evening. We decide to carry on and bird the rich fishponds at the nightjar sight anyway. Just before we get back on the road, we spot a lone Dorcas Gazelle, grazing by a mature Acacia tree. It is a good omen.

Within 90 minutes, we reach the pools at Neot Hakikar and are instantly rewarded. The skies are filled with soaring birds and we pick out a Great Egret amongst a small flock of Little Egrets. Grey Herons are gliding back and forth while the newly arrived Pallid Swifts feed on insects over the pool. There must be at least 100 of this breeding species here and when silence falls over the group, we can hear their screaming call. A Collard Pratincole flashes by, his pointed wings slicing the blue sky. Upon careful scanning along the edge of the pool, Susannah picks out Little Crake and Little Bittern, both skulking at first but eventually giving great views. The water surface is dotted with Little Grebes, Moorhens and Coots and the occasional Black-winged Stilt taxis by, long red legs trailing well behind.

We soon get our first looks at Graceful Prinia, a tiny bird with such a loud song! His cocked tail waves about, crying for our attention. A scratchy reed warbler species starts to sing and we are soon told that it belongs to one of the special birds of the pond, Clamorous Reed Warbler. Our eyes are glued to the reeds, looking for some movement. Sooner than later, we get incredible views of this large and usually skulking bird, out in the open. His chocolatey plumage and slight eyebrow stripe are key features that we all see.

James' eagle eyes spot a distant Long-legged Buzzard perched on a sandy mound. At first it looks just like a lump but the bird cooperates and flies a bit closer. The views are much improved and we can actually see his long legs! The light begins to fade and we talk with the owner of the fishponds. Although most of his pools are under plastic, he has left the large pool to go wild for the birds. He too seemed to be enjoying the wildlife, his binoculars around his neck. It is nice to see fishermen working towards conservation. We thank him and are soon on our return drive to Lotan. Just as we are leaving, three Garganey fly overhead.

We stop at a picnic site about 20 miles from the pools and enjoy our packed dinner under the stars. We get back just before 8.30, run through the checklist and reflect on a great first day in southern Israel.

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Day 3

The winds have changed direction today and are coming from the north. A good sign for raptor migration! While gathering at the buses, a group of six Cattle Egret flies overhead, giving great views. Our pre-breakfast location is Lotan's fields, always a good spot. The old melon fields have been particularly productive this spring and continue to be so today. European Bee-eaters add plenty of colours to the sandy brown landscape as they hang on to overhead wires. A small flock of Trumpeter Finch, bright red beak and all, start the session off on a good note. A sharp looking Bimaculated Lark, spotted by Jonathon follows this. The lighting is just about perfect and the black neck patches show incredibly well. Just when we though there was a bit of a lull, James finds another Caspian Plover, this one a female. The bright white underparts almost shine in the reflection of the morning light.

We walk out into the fields and find a lovely flock of Desert Finch, one of our target birds. Six of them are feeding down a close burrow, just meters away. The soft, beige back, pink wings and black heavy bill and mask are seen perfectly, the morning sun highlighting every detail. A Lesser Kestrel perches on a wire fence, his creamy white belly glowing back at us. A few Marsh Harriers and Black Kites take advantage of the northerly winds and begin their daily northern migration. On the drive back for breakfast, we have stunning views of a pair of Little Green Bee-eaters, eating bees! We watch one bird leave his perch, catch a bee and return to the same perch. He then proceeds to whack the bee that is hanging on for dear life in his long bill in order to get the stinger out. How fascinating!

After breakfast, we head down to Yotvata, a key location for one of the Red Sea endemics, Arabian Warbler. This species prefers rich Acacia wadis and unfortunately, the population is declining at an astonishing rate due to the draining of the water table. There is a three-mile area to cover and there are only two pairs! As we wander around some very mature trees, we come across an archeological site of the remains of a Turkish Police station and what looks like a cemetery. While trying to figure out the mounds and head stones, James picks out a scratchy song of a Sylvia warbler from a nearby tree. After quite some time, the bird reveals his identity and what a bird it is! A male Ruepells Warbler! His black throat and head are separated by a bright white moustacial stripe and the bird looks angry. Eastern Bonelli's Warbler is here in good numbers and is actually very tame. Mick has one just six feet away, almost too close for bins.

Just as we are about to declare defeat on the Arabian Warbler, the bird flies over our heads and lands on a not too distant tree. His long black tail swings frantically, giving away his identity. The bird is quite flighty but eventually, we all have great looks at this large warbler. In the words of our leaders, "It's in the bag!"

The remainder of the morning session is spent at Yotvata's turf fields. Once again, these lush fields in the middle of the desert seem a bit surreal. Nonetheless, migrating birds thrive here and it is filled with Pipits and Wagtails. Overhead, migration is picking up with small thermals of Steppe Buzzards and Black Kites. A female Marsh Harrier hunts over the field and then lands just 50 meters away. European Bee-eaters adorn the treetops and a Little Ringed Plover takes advantage of a puddle in the field. But it is the Buff-bellied Pipit that is the find of the area. This Asiatic bird occasionally passes through Israel and we are lucky to have such fine views. His un-streaked back and heavily marked chest are some key identification features and we can compare him with Red-throated and Water Pipits. Ooh, fun with Pipits!

Driving back for lunch, we take the old road, which runs parallel to the highway and fields. James has received a hot tip: Two Common Cranes are resting in an alfalfa field. Soon enough, we find them, one adult and one juvenile. The heat haze is strong by now and the views are not wonderful. As we prepare to leave, a small warbler gains some attention. At first looks, it appears to be a Sardinian but something is not right. We all fix our bins on the bird and watch him flick his tail up and down, waving it about. The bird hops from bush to bush, always moving north. The black on the head is more diffused onto the back and there are brown fringes in the wing. Ah-ha! Menetries's Warbler! It is a national rarity and once again, we are enjoying good looks of this migrating beauty.

After lunch and a siesta, the wind continues to blow, picking up plenty of sand with it so we make way for some sheltered habitats in Eilat. We make a few bird stops along the Arava highway, one for a perched Short-toed Eagle on a pylon. This migrating raptor looks very large headed, almost owl-like, as he stares down at us. Further down the road, we hit a localized sandstorm and visibility is only 20 meters ahead! We climb out of the sandstorm and stop at a small irrigation leak in the middle of a stony desert. Lo and behold, there is a Spotted Crake bobbing in and out of the only bit of vegetation. We are able to drive right up to the puddle and have amazing views from the protection of the sand-free, air-conditioned vehicle.

We soon reach Eilat and wind our way through some fields until we reach the Eilat Birdwatching Park. The saltpans hold quite a few birds including five Marsh Sandpipers. The views are unbeatable of these fine-billed waders. There are Black-winged Stilts, Ruff and Slender-billed Gulls. Small waders are represented by Little Ringed Plover and the rufous crowned Kentish Plover. As we walk towards some mud flats, a striking Caspian Tern glides over, his blood red bill looking as powerful as ever. We watch him hunt over the water and make an occasional plunge for fish. Scanning the banks, we find Squacco Heron, Grey Heron and Little Egret. The wind has really picked up again and the beads of sand are whipping against our legs.

A quick drive to the date plantations of Kibbutz Elot produces four Indian Silverbills. We find them almost immediately and are amazed by our luck. They sit on top of some razor wire and the afternoon sun picks up the silver tone of the bill and we all enjoy prolonged views. Slowly making our way to the North Beach, we stop at the canal first. There is an interesting heron standing on the bank. The bill is a bit long and pointed like Little Egret but the legs are not black. As the light changes direction, we can clearly see that we have a Western Reef Heron, a Red Sea specialty. There are other good birds in the canal including a Greater Sand Plover and one lone Black Stork amongst a flock of Grey Herons.

At the beach, we set up our scopes and begin scanning the buoys and docks. It is pretty quiet on the water but we do see the dark White-eyed Gull, Great Cormorant and Indian House Crow. Since there is not much action at the beach, we nip over to Ofira Park, an urban garden in the center of Eilat's hotel region. Birders staying in Eilat use this park as their local patch and some good migrants have been seen here in the past. The lawns are filled with Pipits and Wagtails. Slowly we start going through them and identify Red-throated and Water Pipit while the majority of the Yellow Wagtails are the Black-headed variety. Such bobby-dazzlers. A Wryneck sits on the grass, showing very well and three female Cretzschmar's Buntings hop around by the curb. Huge flocks of Spanish Sparrows rustle by and then cling to a nearby tree.

The sun is slowly setting so we make our way to our final destination for the day, the Eilat pumping station. The International Birdwatching Centre of Eilat has put in a drinking trough in the Eilat Mountains for Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse. We position ourselves around the fence and wait for dusk to come. Just as the last light begins to fade, five sandgrouse drop in for a drink. They land about ten feet from the vegetated drinking hole and slowly make their way towards the water. These beautifully marked birds are admired by all, the male with his bold breast band and face markings are just noticeable. They collect the water on their feathers and as it becomes almost impossible to see anything, they fly off, into the mountains. What a magical moment.

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Day 4

We wake to yet another sunny day in Israel. The wind has died down a bit and the mountains in Jordan are finally visible. This morning we have dedicated to finding some special larks, Hoopoe and Bar-tailed Desert Lark in particular. We drive down to Kilometer post 33, Alemon reserve, for our morning excursion. This area of stony desert used to be a lark hot spot but recent agricultural development has encroached on the delicate habitat. Nonetheless, we get stuck in and begin searching the seemingly lifeless desert. We drive along a dirt track and stop for a scan. Almost immediately, Susannah picks out the flutey but plaintive song of the Hoopoe Lark. He is quite distant so we start walking towards the Jordanian border. The song becomes louder and clearer and soon we locate this large lark, perched on a saltbush. His long bill is noted before he lifts off and flies to another bush, flashing his black wing patches and generally putting on a wonderful show. We are amazed at the ease of finding one of the star birds of an Israel trip and James and Susannah assure us that it isn't always that easy!

Walking back to the vans, two large Falcons soar close overhead, one almost taking Brue's hat! The first bird has a rufous crown and longer tail…Yes! A Lanner Falcon! We focus on the second bird and soon identify it as a Barbary Falcon. It seems as if the Lanner was tempting the Barbary's territory. The Barbary soon re-establishes who is the boss and perches ever so obligingly on a near by pylon, offering incredible scope views. We can even pick out the rufous patch on the nape. Talk about being in the right place at the right time.

We still have one more bird to find and as soon as we reach the vehicles, the diagnostic song of Bar-tailed Desert Lark is heard. No, it is not a squeaky pub sign blowing in the wind but the lark. He scurries around between the furrows and rocks and eventually we all manage to get a fix on this active little bird.

Our next birding stop is at the large, open salt pools at Km 20. We park on the causeway and immediately are saturated with birds. There are about 150 Greater Flamingoes, all in various pink plumages, sifting through the mud. A quick scan reveals large numbers of Shellduck roosting on the banks and swimming in the water. There are Slender-billed Gulls and Black-headed Gulls mixed in with the ducks. As we pan along the shore, we pick out some Greenshank, Ruff and Redshank. Almost hidden is a Curlew, his long, de-curved bill always giving him away. The wind has picked up so we head for the mountains with hopes of some raptor migration.

We cross the highway and begin driving along a dirt track. Within three kilometers, we see some signs of migration. We go a bit further along the wadi, and the colours of the mountains are continually changing from sandy beige to vibrant rust and lime green. We stop at an opening of the mountains and watch the birds pour through. Mostly they are Steppe Buzzards, in various colour phases. The sunlight picks out the feather detail perfectly. We watch out for different birds mixed in and soon find a few Steppe Eagles. Their square shape and larger size are soon noticed by all. An almost white raptor soon passes through and we see that it is an Egyptian Vulture! A Black Stork finds a place in the thermalling Buzzards and a scattering of Black Kites pass by as well. Everyone is in heaven, enjoying the very best of Israel. After all, what is spring migration in Southern Israel without 2000+ Steppe Buzzards in an hour? To top off the morning, an Osprey adds itself to the list of migrant raptors. His facemask is easy to pick out in the crisp light and is distinguished from all the other birds.

After lunch and siesta, we meet for our afternoon birding up at the Shizzafon area. We check some Eucalyptus trees that have been good for migrants. True to form, every bush and tree holds at least two each of Blackcaps and Lesser Whitethroat. Walking through the artificial woodland, we find a resident species, Arabian Babbler. There is quite a lot of noise coming from the bird and upon further inspection, we see that the bird is feeding young. They look only about 12 days old, their fledgling gapes still visible. A group of Ortolan Buntings flashing their yellow moustache, feed on the open ground, adding to our ever-growing list.

The temperatures have dropped to a more comfortable climate and we drive a bit further down the road to the sewage farm. Not much on the pools but the outfall has created a long ditch of lush vegetation. A Snipe is almost hidden from all but our super keen eyes manage to pick him out. There are Little Ringed Plovers and Green Sandpipers pecking about in the mud. A pair of Desert Lark offers superb views, just meters away. But it is the House Bunting that really steals the show! His streaky grey and black crown and rufous wings differentiate him from the nominate race. Plus there isn't a single house in sight! This race, strialata is usually found on rocky scree slopes. The bird is a bit flighty but at times, shows incredibly well. We continue walking along the ditch and see more Blackcaps than ever imagined! Black-eared Wheatears and Northern Wheatears are dotted along the landscape. A large Acacia tree holds two Olivaceous Warblers and we all steal good looks. The light begins to fade and we walk back to the vehicles and drop down into the valley.

After dinner, David, the director of tourism at Kibbutz Lotan, talks to us about the kibbutz and Israel, answering all the questions Susannah and James were unable to! It's an early night since tomorrow is a 4am start.

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Day 5

We wake long before the sun in order to get to Nizzana for the sunrise. The first half of the journey is in darkness but the sky begins to lighten up as we reach the Ramon Crater. The contours in the mountains are quite striking and the largest crater from wind and rain erosion, in the world impresses everyone.

Soon enough, the bird list begins. Hooded Crows are abundant but it is the Osprey perched on a telegraph pole that really gets things going. What a strange place to see this species, it is the middle of the desert and not a fish in sight. Further along the road, we stop to look at a small group of Black Storks adorning some Tamarisk trees. Close to Nizzana is a pair of Hobbies, flashing their red trousers to us when they fly from one perch to the other. We set up the scopes and enjoy some fantastic views. A Marsh Harrier quarters a nearby field and some Steppe Buzzards are roosting along the side of the road. All these birds and it isn't even 6am!

The desert landscape at Nizzana is stark and stony with little contours against the sky. The Egyptian border is in view and some of the flying birds can go on our Egypt list! We get to an old airstrip and begin searching for Houbara Bustard, the star bird of the area. We survey the landscape, hoping for some movement amongst the rocks. Other star birds for the area are Cream Coloured Courser and Pin-tailed Sandgrouse. Our first stop proves to be unproductive and birdless so we head into the desert, off road and all. Again, we meticulously scan and eventually it pays off. Brue spots a Cream Coloured Courser just beyond a ridge. We park the vehicles and fix ourselves at a vantagepoint. Sure enough, we find this elegant creature running ever so secretively along the desert floor. Not only one, but three birds together! We celebrate with our packed breakfast and keep one eye on the scope for the elusive Houbara.

After we finish our sandwiches, the hunt is in full swing and we spend the remainder of the morning searching for Houbaras. Unfortunately, they are not in their usual spots and our 14 pairs of eyes are having little luck. For compensation, we do see some striking Pin-tailed Sandgrouse, their cryptic plumage mysteriously camouflages, though we are able to train our eyes and pick them out. What a desert gem. There is a Southern Grey Shrike keeping watch and Bar-tailed Desert Larks singing away. The temps are rising and the air has an over hanging haze to it. Time to head for Kibbutz Gevulot, the place for our overnight stay. Upon leaving the area, we see one more special bird, Desert Wheatear, beautifully perched on a nearby shrub.

Arriving at Gevulot, we are immediately surrounded by mature woodlands and a distinct Mediterranean feel. The kibbutz gardens are filled with song, including some very familiar tunes from Blackbirds and Greenfinch. We enjoy a tasty lunch and then take some well deserved rest during the hot hours of the day.

We meet again at two though Tony and Jonathon have been busy birding while the rest of us were resting! Driving out of Gevulot, two Chukars scurry along a patch of wild flowers and pose nicely beside a tree. Further down the road, we stop at a very productive rubbish tip. A group of about 500 White Storks have just risen to catch the thermals. We watch three individual groups suddenly merge together into a giant corkscrew. The birds glide effortlessly round and round, just like a child's mobile. What a sight! Susannah spots four White Pelicans flying through the storks, a great sighting for the time and area. Flocks of Black Kites scavenge the rubbish pile, showing various colour patterns while Cattle Egrets peck at the top layers of the garbage. The soft, flutey song of Crested Lark in the low grasses adds atmosphere to the sight.

We spend the remainder of the afternoon wandering around the fields of Urim, a large expanse of arable fields. The area always promises lots of birds, today being no different. There are tight flocks of hundreds of Spanish Sparrows flittering around and lots of Short-toed Larks feeding in the fields. Graham spots a large raptor perched on a hilltop. It looks very interesting so we drive closer. The pale head and chest and long legs give it away. Yet another Long-legged Buzzard. It is still quite hot and not much action in the fields so we drive towards some stands of tamarisk trees.

A Stone Curlew stands motionless amongst the trunks. When scanning the area, we find five more! We have excellent views of these nocturnal birds. A Turtle Dove sits atop a pine tree and Blackcaps hop around the foliage. A lizard clings to the side of a tree and Brian, our reptile expert, identifies it as some type of agama lizard. We continue driving along the avenue of trees and car #2 is soon sidetracked by a beautiful female Rock Thrush, looking very rufous toned. When she flies, her red tail makes her unmistakable. Car #1 quickly back tracks to see what car #2 is up to. We trade information for car #1 has just seen a Woodchat Shrike. Soon enough, everyone catches up with both species and we spend some time chasing a flighty Orphean Warbler. A quick look on the pylons produces a female Peregrine, showing ever so nicely. The slate back and dark moustacial stripes are crystal clear.

Our last port of call is at Wadi HaBesor. We position ourselves on a low, sandy cliff and look down into reed and scrub. A male Blue Rock Thrush is spotted sitting on top of some cliffs. Though distant, we all see it well. "Oh me, oh my!" cries Susannah as she picks out a distant pair of Great Spotted Cuckoos. They are quite active and when they fly, we all see the long tail. Closer views reveal the colour pattern as well. Cetti's Warblers call from below and Wendie finds a beautiful Golden Jackal. A perched Kestrel receives lots of attention and Julie notices a small falcon flying right towards us. The bird is quick but we all see the streaked underparts and dark back. Another Hobby! The views are fantastic. Steppe Buzzards are scattered throughout the wadi and large flocks of migrating House Martins flitter past. The temperatures have reached that perfect degree and we all enjoy the desert wilderness in the last bit of daylight.

The checklist roll call is followed by some amusing comments about jumping in and out of the vans while Wendie explains the trials and tribulations of being less than five feet tall! Peter ends the evening by charismatically describing his afternoon in the back of James' car through the bumpy fields.

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Day 6

The skies are cloudy this morning and the humidity of yesterday has burned off. The kibbutz gardens are alive with action at first light. The soft purring of Turtle Dove and the familiar flutey song of Blackbird make up the dawn chorus. We have a pre-breakfast stroll and get fantastic views of Palestine Sunbird. Their iridescent feathers shimmer when they fly past. But it is the Syrian Woodpeckers that make the early morning lively. A female is pecking at a mature tree and we all get great looks. We continue walking around the kibbutz gardens and soon find ourselves in front of a stand of pine trees. Susannah and James have their necks craned up and soon enough, they spot a Long-eared Owl! Eventually we can all find the bird tucked away, his beady eyes watching our every move. Meanwhile, two male Syrian Woodpeckers are fighting over some territory as they work their way up a bare tree. The views beat the ones earlier, with their red crowns almost leaping off their heads.

After breakfast we drive back to Nizzana for another try for Houbara. We stop at the rubbish tip just in time to see a flock of 300 White Storks thermalling and then pealing off. Amazing. En route, James' prized eyes are working over time. Car #2 knows the stop will produce something good because of the speed at which Jonathon flies out of the car! And sure enough, it is a male Pallid Harrier, drifting over the sandy mounds, looking ever so ghostly. A female Marsh Harrier soon follows and the raptor list continues to climb. A bit further down the road, we stop for yet another raptor, this time a pale phased Booted Eagle. The bird is gliding just above our heads and everyone enjoys the sight.

Within an hour, we return to Nizzana and begin the search. Peter spots some Cream Coloured Coursers, always a beautiful find. They are much closer today and we all bathe in their beauty. Driving the similar routes as yesterday, we fully cover Houbara territory though the only birds we see are Woodchat Shrike, Southern Grey Shrike and Desert Wheatear. The Houbara must be sitting on eggs or with new chicks, the only time of year when they don't roam or display. As we start to leave the area, a pair of Pin tailed Sandgrouse are spotted, resting at the side of a track, looking ever so glorious. We couldn't ask for better views.

We start driving away from Nizzana and pass some large fields at Ashalim. James spots some raptors in the far end so we drive closer. Upon further inspection, we see five Steppe Eagles and one Lesser-Spotted Eagle in the field together. Soon, a short-toed Eagle joins the group and at times, we can see him through the tall vegetation. Three White Storks are working their way through the fields, eating grubs and there is some active migration of Lesser Spotted Eagles, Black Storks and Black Kites above. The constant bouncy song of Short-toed Lark makes up the background music. Roger suddenly locates a distant flock of White Pelicans. Goodness, gracious me! There must be at least 2000 birds in the group! What a sight to be seen. The birds at times disappear when they twist and turn, their black wings not visible at all. When we can focus on them, the flock looks almost like snow falling.

Lunchtime is soon approaching so we drive to Sde Boker and dine at Ben Gurrion's desert home. After a good meal, our eyes are back to the skies fore there are raptors to see! We come to a huge canyon called the wilderness of Zin, a place where Moses and the children of Israel wondered for 40 years. Now we can see why! We descend into the valley and the starkness of the cliffs is well defined in this overcast day. We park the cars at the opening of Ein Avdat and have a raptor extravaganza. A pair of Bonelli's Eagle lifts up and soars effortlessly overhead. Griffon Vultures soon join the eagles and then a pair of Egyptian Vulture thermal into view. We compare size and shape of these special raptors and just let it all happen. We scan the impressive limestone cliffs and pick out a Griffon Vulture on a nest feeding young! There are five pairs in the valley and this is the first year they are breeding here.

After our eyes get raptor overload, we focus on another amazing flyer, this one an Alpine Swift. His white belly flashes down at us and his large size is almost mistaken for a small falcon. We start to drive back up the canyon for more breathtaking views. While stopped, we hear the cry of Scrub Warbler and eventually locate the bird next to some bushes. He hops out, to the side, waving his cocked tail a few times before disappearing into the desert. As we walk back to the cars, a pair of Sand Partridge crosses the road in front of us! So nice to see these game birds in such open country.

We slowly make our way back to Lotan, stopping at a few locations along the way. At a comfort stop, we check out a small parkland that in the past had been good for migrants. Unfortunately, the only thing we see is lots of rubbish. But it feels good to stretch the legs. Just as we get into the vans, a flock of Chukar appears just meters away. Isn't it always the case that the birds are in the car park?!

We return to Lotan with plenty of time to unwind from our Negev adventure and enjoy a festive evening meal followed be the checklist roll call in the pub.

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Day 7

While waiting for everyone to gather, a few of us get our daily sighting of Cattle Egret over the car park. Driving out of Lotan, a sight of 15 plus Yellow Wagtails feeding on the grass grabs our attention. They add a splash of colour to the morning.

We climb back up the Negev Plateau to our local sewage farm/ Sandgrouse extravaganza site. When we arrive, we see our South African friends, all dressed immaculately of course! Get into position and wait. A Long-legged Buzzard glides past, scaring the Trumpeter finch away. Soon we start to hear the distant calls of Spotted Sandgrouse. "Wa coo', wa coo'!" They come into view, flocks of 30 birds, fly past and then land out of sight, on a near bank. They continue to fly around, calling and showing their black belly strip and pin tail, before finally landing in the sewage area for a drink. Amidst the excitement, a slightly different call is heard, one sounding more like a flock of chickens. We focus our bins and scopes…Yes! A group of 11 Crowned Sandgrouse! They sit on the bank for a good 10 minutes, displaying and at times showing aggression. Eventually they make their way to the water, peck the surface, drink and almost without notice, they are gone. Flocks of Spotted Sandgrouse continue to swarm around us, calling and performing. The morning is absolute magic.

Driving back down the valley, James picks out a Barbary Falcon with prey in its talons. The bird seems to be trying to find a place to land and devour his meal. We leave him in peace and head for the large saltpans at Km20.

The pools are filled with birds and we get good looks at many of them. Before we turn off the highway, though, a Gull-billed Tern, with his elastic flight, crosses the road. We drive around the pools and position ourselves for a good scan. There are still plenty of Shellduck and mixed in with them are 13 Shoveler. The sandbanks are filled with waders, most in winter plumage. This causes a bit of confusion at first but the books come out and we study the features of the birds a bit more carefully. There are Little Stint, Dunlin and Ringed Plover. Little Ringed Plovers are dotted around and a few varied Kentish Plovers as well. Going for a different angle of the pools, we pass a few Common Sandpipers bobbing along the shore. Redshank and Ruff are quite numerous and the delicate Marsh Sandpiper doesn't go unnoticed. Susannah picks out a Red-necked Phalarope, spinning away, between some Slender-billed Gulls. Though still in winter plumage, the long, needle-like bill gives him away.

The wind has picked up and we start driving out of the pool area, spotting a Grey Plover as we go. We drive the scenic Arava highway to Lotan for lunch. After our daily siesta, we try one more time for Nubian Nightjar. We do some afternoon birding at one of the smelliest sewage pools in Israel. Everyone is pre-warned and at first, it is not so bad. But as soon as the wind changes direction…! This particular sewage farm is home of Dead Sea Sparrow. We search the surrounding vegetation and see plenty of nests. These large, global shaped structures are similar to Magpie nests. The male constructs 2 or 3 and then the female chooses which one she wants! Unfortunately, for an unknown reason, the sparrows have abandoned this nest site. For compensation, we enjoy fine looks at a beautiful Citrine Wagtail. The dusk is soon approaching so we go for our appointment with Hadoram Shirahai.

Hadoram briefs us on the status of Nubian Nightjar, only 5 pairs in Israel, all located in the sueder bushes at the Southern Dead Sea. Fortunately for these birds, their habitat is safe from development since they nest in a minefield! After Hadoram explains the procedure, we carry on to the observation site (safe and far away from dangerous mines!), driving through greenhouses and fields. We get to a banking that overlooks the scrub and Hadoram begins scanning with his torch. Immediately he picks up two Stone Curlews passing by, their wings flashing at us as they go. A half-hour goes by and we hear the faint barking call of the nightjar. Anticipation rises and soon enough, Hadoram catches this majestic crepuscular species in the beam of the light. We watch the bird catch insects with his wide-open mouth and get great views of the wing patch. After we are all satisfied with the views, Hadoram turns off the light so as to not disturb the bird. We quietly return to the cars and slowly leave the bird to continue feeding.

We enjoy another packed dinner in the open desert, the evening sky filled with stars.

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Day 8

It is our last day and it already stars off a winner with a Nightingale outside Peter and Brian's room. We are on the road by 8 and are destined for the North Beach in Eilat. Somehow, while driving 90 kilometers an hour, James spots a female Hooded Wheatear on the side of the road! Our stop actually produces the male as well. He flicks about on an Acacia tree and in due time, he sits still for scope views. His black bib extends much further down the throat like in the similar Mourning Wheatear. Plus even from a distance, we can see how long he is. It is another new bird for the trip!

We continue down the highway and soon pull off and drive to the beach via back roads. Just as we turn a corner, four Purple Herons flap by. Unfortunately they are flying directly into the sun and the features are just about impossible to pick out. Raptor migration is well underway by now, the Black Kites having been on the go for over an hour. Steppe Buzzards are just joining in and a light phased Booted Eagle adds to the list.

At the beach, we set up our scopes and begin scanning through the birds. There are plenty of challenging gulls to work out. Luckily there are the obvious Black-headed and Slender-billed gulls. Mixed in is a larger gull, the Baltic Gull, a form of Lesser Black-backed gull. A Little Gull sits on the water next to the raft of gulls and a group of Common Terns join the scene.

There are four distant ducks but to matter how hard we try, we can't identify them. A female Garganey flies overhead and Doug and Meg spot a hovering Pied Kingfisher close to shore. The bird dives for a fish and then disappears. A Common Kingfisher whizzes by flashing his bright turquoise and orange feathers. As we get on to two distant Striated Herons on the pier, a huge group of gulls rise up from the sea. Susannah shouts, "Arctic Skua!" Actually there are three birds, chasing and harassing the gulls, prying their catch.

After all the excitement dies down, we leave the beach and drive along the canal, towards some different saltpans. Mixed in amongst the Grey Herons stands a handsome Purple Heron. This time the sun is in the right position and highlights the deep purple wing panels. From here, the sound of Smyrna Kingfisher (or White-breasted), is picked out from the distant date palms. The search is on! We drive to the plantation and begin scanning the trees. Fortunately for us, the white breast patch of the bird stands out like a beacon. Soon everyone finds him, red daggered bill and all. The only word that comes to mind is 'Wow!'

And if this isn't enough, Brue finds a flycatcher just four trees away. Sure enough, he has found a female Semi-collared flycatcher, the upper wingbar quite obvious. We watch her fly from perch to perch, returning every so often to the original tree. The donkeys in the plantation are elated for us and scream their delights, breaking up the peaceful silence. And the list continues to grow…

Our time is almost up and we make one last fruitless attempt at locating Namaqua Dove. We find a field that is filled with Short-toed Larks and the ubiquitous Yellow Wagtail. By now, we can all identify the different races. We make the final journey up the valley for lunch. We do the last roll call and are up to 180 birds! Peter relays everyone's appreciation and thanks James and Susannah. He then sums up the week and suggests that we make a pop-up book about the tour, complete with ejector seats and hiding Houbaras! Then it is time to climb up to the Negev Plateau, taking in the magnificent view of the Arava Valley and Kibbutz Lotan one more time, hoping these views will last until we return to the riches of Southern Israel.

Post Script

Just two days after our Negev trip, Trevor Ellery, another of Lotan's guides, had great views of Houbara Bustard with very young chicks.

Further reports

Contact info

Daphna Abell
Program Coordinator
lotan-programs@lotan.ardom.co.il
Tel: +972 8 6356935;
Toll Free: 1800 2000 75 (when in Israel)